This time, we’ll be passing through the Czech Republic road trip style, making our way from Vienna to Poland. But that doesn’t mean we’ll miss out on adventures—quite the opposite! We’re about to discover stunning Punkva stalactite caves with underground waters, tunnels, and even an angel. Plus, a charming little mountain town with storybook-worthy streets awaits us—the only place in the world where the famous Štramberk Ears are made. Curious to find out more? Then join us on our virtual Czech Republic road trip.
Location: Punkva caves, Štramberk
Cost: You have to purchase ticket for cave, but rest of the places listed are free
How to get there: By car
The Surprise-Filled Punkva Caves
How do you think this will compare to Georgia’s Prometheus Caves we visited last year?
This Czech Republic road trip stop is so popular that in summer, tickets need to be booked a month in advance—so it must be something special! And that’s not the only requirement. To reach the Punkva caves in the Moravian Karst Nature Park, you must arrive at least 40 minutes early. Why? Because you can’t drive right up to the Punkva caves—you’ll need to leave your car in the parking lot and either walk a bit or take a tourist train.
We park our car in a paid parking lot—don’t forget to have some Czech koruna for this—and embark on the paved path through the forest. The walk to Punkva Caves turns out to be a feast for the eyes, as time after time, a smaller rock outcrop or a tiny cave pops into view.
When we arrive at the Punkva cave entrance, we have to wait a little—entry is only allowed at the designated start time since the tour is guided. Which makes sense. You wouldn’t want to get lost in a cave, would you? That sounds like the perfect setup for a horror movie.
However, there’s a small catch you should be aware of—the tours in Punkva caves are only available in Czech. For English speakers, a booklet is provided. But that’s no problem; our imagination is working just fine—we’ll enjoy the views and create our own story.
Punkva Caves Underground Lake and the Stalactites That Almost Met
Entering Punkva Cave feels like stepping into a hidden kingdom that wastes no time revealing its aces. After just a short walk through a dimly lit corridor, a small underground lake emerges before you—its still waters as reflective as a mirror.
Can you tell where the stalactites end and their reflection begins?
Every now and then, a single droplet falls from the ceiling, breaking the silence and creating tiny ripples on the water’s surface.
The stalactites in Punkva caves come in all shapes and sizes—some resemble icicles, others totem poles or multi-layered cakes. I don’t know if you’d agree, but to me, most of them look a bit slimy. My fingers itch to touch them, to feel their texture. But I must resist.
Then, we come across a true melodrama of the stalactite world—a stalactite and stalagmite that nearly touch. Only a few centimeters apart, yet they will forever remain distant. Fate has played a cruel trick on them. These formations have dried out, and they will never grow to meet. A little heartbreaking, don’t you think? A symbol of longing, frozen in time.
We wipe away an imaginary tear and continue through the many passageways and chambers.
Something catches your attention. What do you see?
I don’t know about you, but I see hands and the folds of a cloak. I see an angel.
Nature never ceases to amaze!
A Surprise in the End of the Tunnel
We make our way through a dark, damp tunnel, feeling the chill of the stone walls. But at the end of the tunnel there is a light.
Here Punkva caves will really surprise you. Exiting the tunnel feels like stepping into another dimension, like stumbling into Narnia through a wardrobe.
We emerge from the tunnel into a vast, green grotto formed by a sinkhole. ‘Just like in Iceland!’ someone exclaims. I’d say – it feels more like an elf’s kingdom. Above us, the blue sky shines, the stone walls are covered in lush green moss, and at the center lies an unusually vibrant greenish-blue pool. This is said to be the place where the Punkva River disappears underground. Simply breathtaking!
This extraordinary natural formation is known as the Macocha Abyss. The term ‘Abyss’ here refers to a bottomless chasm. At first, I thought the Punkva Caves lacked the colorful lights found in some other stalactite caves I’ve visited, but this otherworldly abyss more than makes up for it.
And our Punkva cave adventure isn’t over yet.
A Slightly Extreme Underground Boat Ride in Punkva Caves
A boat ride through the cave sounds pretty impressive, doesn’t it? Gliding over dark waters with a stone wall above you instead of the sky is quite unusual. But the boat ride in the Punkva Caves can get a bit extreme at times, as there are moments when the boat gets so close to the rocks that you’ll need to tilt your head down to avoid losing it.
Although fun, the boat ride itself isn’t long. After a short while, we’re dropped off at the other end, where we have a chance to explore another chamber with stalactites. Then it’s back into the boat, and we head toward the exit.
A Peaceful Hike in the Moravian Karst Nature Park
If it’s possible to extend the adventure, why not do it?
After the visit to Punkva caves instead of heading straight back to the car, let’s take a detour along a nature trail that promises to lead us to a point where we can see the same Macocha Abyss from above.
I must warn you, though—it involves some uphill climbing. So, if you’re not wearing suitable footwear, there’s a cable car that can lend a helping hand.
The atmosphere along the trail in Moravian Karst Nature Park is peaceful. The trees provide a pleasant shade, and every now and then, a rough rock formation or an archway in the stone wall flashes by. When we reach the top, we spot a café and souvenir stalls. But resist the temptation, summon your courage, and approach the edge to look down. Yes, the fall would be quite severe.
Far below, a narrow gorge is visible, but mostly the view is obscured by trees. From this distance, they look like moss, don’t they?
That’s enough for now. Let’s head back to the car—there’s a few hours’ drive ahead of us to get to the next stop of our Czech republic road trip.
Štramberk – A Mountain Town in the Czech Republic, Whose Economy Is Built Around “Ear” Cookies
After settling into our hotel, we take a leisurely walk to catch the final moments of daylight before the sun sets. Our aim is to explore the postcard-perfect streets of this picturesque Czech mountain town and find the best spots to take in the panoramic views of Štramberk.
Evening Stroll Through the Charming Streets of Štramberk
The narrow streets that wind their way up the hill, with the tube tower perched atop like a candle on a cake, hold something magical. At first glance, they seem like ordinary houses, with ordinary people living in them, just like anywhere else… But for some reason, in Štramberk, every colorful wall, every ornate window, and every flower box feels just a little bit romantic. Perhaps it’s the mountain air? Or maybe it’s the magic of summer. Or perhaps, it’s just in my head.
Štramberská Trúba and the Viewpoint
Which way should we go? Of course, to the Štramberk Trúba – the quaint castle tower perched atop the hill. The opening hours have long passed, so we can’t go inside, but we’re hopeful that the view from the hill, where the castle stands, will offer a breathtaking panorama.
Oh, yes! Look at those little houses, some already glowing with lights in the windows. And just look at the mountains in the background!
Here, at the base of the castle, we’re completely alone. Everyone else is likely indoors, settling in for the night. But we want to make the most of these last moments of daylight, so we take a leisurely stroll through Štramberk streets, where the ancient lanterns cast their soft glow.
The church tower rises, shining in the evening light. We wander down narrow paths, past carefully planted flowers and crumbling stone walls. Have we accidentally wandered into someone’s private courtyard? Hopefully not. I might be romanticizing it a little, but life here feels so much more peaceful, as though time slows down, allowing the beauty of every moment to linger. The air is calm, the world seems quieter, and for a brief moment, all of life’s usual rush fades away.
Unfortunately it’s getting a bit too dark now.
So, goodnight, Štramberk! See you in the morning!
Visiting Jeskyně Šipka cave in Štramberk to Fix our Second Day Cave Hangover
Do you have a cave hangover from yesterday’s adventures? Is your system craving more caves to explore? No worries! We’ll treat it with another cave visit. I should mention, though, this one will be much smaller, but it’s typical to treat hangovers with lighter doses, right?
After breakfast, we take a 15-minute walk that leads us to Jeskyně Šipka, or the Šipka Cave. There, we are greeted by a moss-covered stone portal.
Beyond the portal, there’s a sort of roofless chamber. I imagine how ancient people might have sat here by a fire, gazing up at the stars. From this chamber, several tunnels begin. One is longer, leading into the darkness deep beneath the stone, while another opens up quickly and you can see the light at the other end.
Let’s Taste the Famous Czech Cookies
The best souvenir is one that’s hard to find anywhere else, right?It turns out that the Štramberk area is the only place in the world where Štramberské uši are made. These are cookies that taste like gingerbread and are easily recognized for their unique shape, which resembles ears.
You can find Štramberk ears in any shop around the town. Whether it’s a pastry shop or a small grocery store, the packaging is always the same, printed with the legend of the ears. The text is, of course, in Czech, but Google is always there to help. If I understand it correctly, we’re symbolically eating cut-off human ears to celebrate liberation from invaders. I hope this doesn’t ruin the taste for you.
Sometimes it’s nice to stay away from the big cities, isn’t it? To enjoy the wonders of nature (caves, cliffs, and abysses) and explore the intriguing streets of a small town, free from crowds of tourists. This Czech Republic road trip itinerary is perfect for that.
Once our hearts are full, we can move on. Adventures await us in Poland!
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