What was life like for Latvian farmers in rural areas a couple of centuries ago? If you don’t know the answer, the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum may be an eye-opening experience for you. It certainly was for me.
So, come along for a walk through a peaceful forest where Latvian homesteads, churches, and other buildings from the 17th to 20th centuries have found their forever home. Much like wise old grandmas and grandpas, they have countless stories to share.
Cost: Have to purchase ticket. View prices and working hours.
Length: We walked ~5km and spent a bit more that 3h there (including food pause), but we didn’t check out everything
How to get there: Public transport (buss) or driving.
Life Before Electricity
Latvian Homesteads in the Ethnographic Open-Air Museum
The setting couldn’t be more idyllic. You are walking through a lush forest, and one by one, beautiful old wooden houses with straw roofs, overgrown with bright green moss, come into view.
Although these buildings were born in different times, sometimes even centuries apart, and were brought to the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum from various places around the country, being here today makes one feel like they are in a little village frozen in time.
Shall we peek inside? Absolutely!
What’s Special About Churches in the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum?
You’ll notice it as soon as you step in. No, it is not the pleasant aroma of old wood that hits you. No, it’s not the intricate woodwork detailing around the window arches or the statues on the pulpit, although they are all honourable mentions.
It’s the stunning painted wooden ceiling. Above you is a sky filled with fluffy clouds and angels watching over you. It is very impactful. Can you imagine this room as it once was, illuminated by the flickering light of candles and a church choir singing? I get goosebumps thinking about it.
After you have soaked this in for a while, it is time to move on. There is still a lot to explore. Here’s a tip: when you visit other churches in the museum (and yes, there are several), keep your eyes open for a ceiling adorned with hundreds of painted stars and listen carefully to hear some organ music.
A Fun Game Called “What Is That?”
On our journey through the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum, let’s play a little game. I will point out an object, and you have to guess what it is. Though I am not a historian or an anthropologist, I am your everyday tourist, so I might get something wrong as well.
Come on! Let’s try it. What is that?
I don’t know the official name, but I believe it is a thing you use to call everyone who’s out and about home for a meal. So, like an early version of an alarm or a pager?
The Houses in the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum Are Sisters, But Not Twins
Next, we wander into one of the many family houses.
The living space is quite compact. Families used to eat, work, pray, and sleep all in one large room. This makes sense, as a smaller house was easier to keep warm during those harsh Latvian winters.
Although nowadays this setting with the rough, exposed wood walls, clay pottery, and beautiful old cradle looks quite romantic, life back in the day was hard with no running water, no electricity, and only as much food as you were able to collect to survive the winter. To be honest, real-time travel isn’t something I dream of!
As I mentioned before, in the Latvian Open-Air Museum, there are many homes to visit. And with each house you peek into, you start to notice the differences. A richer house may have a wooden floor. A poor man’s house would have only cold rock to step on.
And there are regional differences too. Here is a fun fact from one of the Open-Air Museum employees to prove it: Only in Latgale did people sleep on top of wood-burning stove walls to keep themselves warm. Bet you didn’t expect that? Or maybe you did, as you may find references to that in folklore (I think).
What Is That?
It’s the ancestor of today’s closet—the dowry chest. Filled with goods some very handy lady crafted in preparation for her married life.
In the old storage house, you’ll find a whole collection of these adorned with various paintings.
Not Only Homes Tell Stories
Schools, saunas, and barns in the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum have something to say too. Are you willing to listen?
Latvian Sauna House Traditions
The sauna has always been important in Latvian culture and traditions. It wasn’t only the place for washing up. It was the place where new life came into the world, as well as the place where it all ended, as that’s where people received their last washing up after they had passed away.
Just like in the church we saw earlier, as soon as you walk in, you are greeted by the smell of old wood. But this time, it is mixed with smoke. Interestingly, the earliest saunas didn’t have chimneys—these were added later.
It takes a bit of time for your eyes to get used to the dark (remember, no electricity). But when you finally start to regain your eyesight, you spot big buckets for holding water and birch brooms. Just like a family had left it after the weekly bathing session.
Old Windmills of the Latvian Open-Air Museum
Another fascinating sight at the museum is the collection of old windmills. I believe there are three in total, and all have long since retired. But standing at the base of these towering structures, you can easily imagine their blades turning in the breeze, grinding grain into flour, which was a staple in the Latvian diet.
The Pig House and Other Utility Buildings in the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum
How many of these have you heard of? And how many have you seen?
- Threshing barn
- Summer kitchen
- Food storage barn
- Meat smoking house
- Pig house
All of them used to be part of Latvian farmers’ daily life. Some of them have slowly faded from memory, while others have morphed into niche hobbies. All can be explored in the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum.
To me the pig house holds a special place in my heart as I remember being so small that I was able to get inside of it. Now looking at the tiny building it seems impossible.
Another Round of Our Favourite Open-Air Museum Game
Here is a harder one. What is this contraption?
A torture wheel, perhaps? I don’t think so. Could it be the device separating straw from the grain? Very possible.
Life With Some Electricity: The New Farmer’s House in Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air museum
A couple of hundred years can change a lot.
If you are a millennial who had a grandma living in the countryside or you’re a bit older, the youngest of the Open-Air Museum houses (the new farmer’s house from the 20th century) may just feel like a story from your own childhood.
This house is a blast of colours. There are colourful paintings of what look to be Latvian power signs on the walls and ceiling. And every surface has a hand-embroidered textile on top of it.
In the centre of the living room proudly sits a radio and a wire phone. What a luxury!
But still—no electric lighting?
It may feel like electric light bulbs have been around forever. They were invented in the 19th century, right? But it turns out my grandma grew up in a house with no electricity. She’s a bit over 70. And my mother said she used to visit her grandma, who lived in a house with a well instead of running water and petrol lamps instead of electric lighting.
That is an interesting thing to wrap one’s head around. Until you realise there are still people today living with no reliable source of power. Then it morphs into quite a humbling experience.
So, how much have we walked? Around 5 km? It doesn’t feel like it. But maybe it is time to head back. And as it is the season, maybe as a reward, we could end our adventure with a glass of refreshing kvass in the Open-Air Museum’s café. Sounds like a plan!
The Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum is more than just a collection of buildings; it’s a living history lesson that immerses you in the essence of Latvian rural heritage. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious, this museum offers a rich tapestry of stories that connect past and present, opening our eyes to where we have come from and the progress we’ve made.
What to Know About Visiting the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum
Summer Season vs. Winter Season
I visited in the summer, as that is when you can explore most of the houses. In the winter, only a few of them are open.
However, in the last couple of years, they have also held a special light garden event during the winter. So, if you are visiting Latvia in the off-season, keep your eye out to see if something similar happens again.
Special Events at the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum
Throughout the year, there are various special events like the Latvian craft market and some traditional Latvian celebrations, such as the solstice, that are held in the museum and offer a variety of fun activities. Check their website for upcoming dates.
Food and Drinks at the Latvian Open-Air Museum
In the summer season, there are two cafés. I have been to only one of them, and that one offered some typical Latvian meals like cabbage and sausage, toasted rye bread, cold beetroot soup, etc. I don’t have info about winter season.
But you can also bring a picnic with you as a more budget friendly option.
Other things to see and do in Latvia