Today, we’ll be exploring Diocletian’s Palace in Split—a place that is both in ruins and alive at the same time. How is that possible, you may ask? The boundaries between Split’s old town and the former Roman emperor Diocletian’s palace are very blurry. One might even say they’re non-existent. After the emperor’s grand retirement home was heavily damaged, former inhabitants of the nearby Solin built new houses within the ruins of the palace, incorporating parts of the old structure into their new buildings.
Many centuries have passed, but even today, in Diocletian’s Palace, you can see ancient ruins blended with living houses, lively cafes, shops, and bars. So, let’s explore it together!
P.S. I’m not a historian, just a regular tourist. I find my facts on the internet, so feel free to suggest corrections if I get something wrong!
Make sure you increase the video quality in settings for the best viewing experience 😉
Location: Diocletian’s Palace, Split
Cost: Outdoors areas listed are free. If you wish to go in cathedral or in museums, you would have to purchase entrance ticket for those.
Length: Took us ~1,5h to explore and wonder
How to get there: If your close to center – walk. If your further take public transport.
Check out our full Croatia – Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary
Discovering Diocletian’s Palace’s Dark Basements
We enter the palace through its dark basements. It’s spacious, with massive columns supporting the stone ceiling. Here, you won’t find elegant detailing; everything is rough, stained, and a little spooky. This was once where prisons stood and persecutions took place.
And here’s a fun fact: for a time, the basements of Diocletian’s Palace were used for discarding waste and sewage. Ironically, this is said to be the reason they’re so well-preserved.
Daytime Splendour at the Grand Peristyle Square of Diocletian’s Palace
Next, we head to what I call the heart of Diocletian’s Palace—the Grand Peristyle, also known as the main courtyard where the emperor used to entertain his guests.
Inside the palace, it’s not uncommon to see a piece of stone with inscriptions or a freestanding column fragment. These ancient relics fit organically into the ruin-like scene. And yet, somehow, modern-day ice cream shops and bars blend in too.
The column surrounded peristyle is breathtaking, with so many intricate details and the St. Domnius church tower rising above it. No wonder there are soooo many people here!
We had an honest debate about what came first—the grand columns or the building with little balconies that seem to incorporate them into its exterior. I am guessing the columns. Anyways, it is really cool.
And randomly—there’s a sphinx here! If you are wondering, yes, the internet confirms it came all the way from Egypt.
Nighttime Adventures at the Grand Peristyle Square of Diocletian’s Palace
During the day, you might catch a historical dance performance in the peristyle. But the party doesn’t end when the sun sets. In the summer, you might stumble upon live musical performances here.
There’s something magical about sitting on centuries-old staircases under the stars, listening to live music on a warm summer night. If you’re into adult drinks, the nearby bar lets you enjoy the tunes with a cocktail served right on the palace’s peristyle steps.
I don’t drink, so I can’t tell you about the prices, but I definitely enjoyed the vibes.
The Historic Cathedral of St. Domnius in Diocletian’s Palace
You never know how destiny will play out.
What was once Diocletian’s mausoleum has now become a Christian church named after St. Domnius, a saint Diocletian himself persecuted.
The exterior’s most beautiful feature (in my opinion) is the detailed bell tower. You can climb it and visit the cathedral if you purchase an entrance ticket.
The Skeleton of Former Glory – Vestibule (Rotonda)
While exploring you hear a faint sound of someone singing.It sounds a bit like a church choir, but it’s not coming from the church. It’s likely the a cappella singers in the vestibule.
But it is a bit hard to find it if you are looking for a rounded building as it doesn’t appear to be rounded from the outside. So by the time we came across it the singers were already gone, and all that was left was the tips box. Better luck next time! But it doesn’t stop us from exploring the Rotonda itself.
The vestibule is a round hall built of bricks. If you look up, you’ll see that the dome which once covered it is long gone, leaving a circular opening that reveals the sky.
This room once served as a transition from the peristyle to the emperor’s private apartments. This is not how it used to look back then though. It is said to have statues, mosaics and marble slabs. Now, all that’s left are the bare bones, but its shape is still intriguing. And don’t miss the intricate details on the entry gate!
Split’s Old Town Streets in Diocletian’s Palace’s Belly
It feels like every time you walk around Diocletian’s Palace, you discover another charming little street you hadn’t seen before. The winding pathways between the houses are perfect for exploring.
At many points during your visit, you’ll face a choice of which direction to take, as there are often multiple paths. It’s hard to predict where they’ll lead, so my advice is to follow your heart. The path will definitely take you somewhere interesting.
On one turn you find someone’s laundry drying on a wire. Behind the next there may be a lively restaurant (there are a lot of those here), or a little garden or just some historic houses overgrown with ivy.It’s fun no matter what!
By just wondering is how we found this great photo spot of the bell tower.
Step Outside Diocletian’s Palace to Meet Gregory of Nin
Looking through the Golden Gate, you’ll spot a tall statue surrounded by people. Many of them are engaged in an unusual activity—rubbing the statue’s toe. What’s going on here?
This is the statue of Gregory of Nin, a Croatian bishop who introduced the Croatian language into religious services, forever shaping Croatia’s religious landscape. Rubbing his toe likely began as a sign of respect, but today it’s believed to bring good luck.
Meet the Roman Soldiers by the Golden Gate
Looking to snap some fun travel photos to send to your friends? Then approach the Roman soldiers guarding the Golden Gate (or those at the peristyle). Don’t worry—they’re friendly and work for tips.
You’ll get three poses: the polite one where everyone smiles, the one where you’re ready to attack, and the one where you’re doomed, with the soldiers at your throat. All in good humour, of course!
But while you’re having fun with your new friends, don’t forget to check out the Golden Gate itself. Built as the main entrance to Diocletian’s Palace, it’s quite grand.
There is also a detail many may miss. If you stand beneath the gate and look up, you’ll see monstrous heads carved into the bottom of the decorative blocks.
Thoughts?
Whether you’re here to learn, explore, or simply enjoy the atmosphere, Diocletian’s palace will leave you with lasting memories. After all, where else can you see such an intriguing blend of the ancient, the old and the new?
Check out the full itinerary of our Croatia – Bosnia and Herzegovina road trip
A lot more fun things to experience organized in a day-to day plan