Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia: Expectations vs Reality

Is the water at Plitvice Lakes National Park really as blue as it looks in the photos? The vibrant turquoise looks suspiciously perfect. Is the main waterfall really as breathtaking as people claim? And what about that serene stroll on wooden pathways, surrounded by lush greenery and cascading waterfalls? Does it feel like walking through a dream, or do you find yourself stuck in traffic jams caused by crowds of selfie-takers? 

Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia is world-renowned, and with fame comes expectation. Everyone visits with a vision in their head of what this natural wonder should be like. Today, I’m not going to list out the top things to do—that’s been done a thousand times. Instead, I want to take you through the park from an “expectations vs. reality” lens, comparing everything I thought Plitvice would be to what it actually was. Spoiler alert: I loved it! But there was definitely some mismatch between my expectations and what it turned out to be.

So, grab your virtual hiking boots and join me on a walk through Plitvice Lakes to set our expectations straight together.

PS: This is based on a single day, June 4th, 2024, so in some cases, I may have just gotten lucky or very unlucky.

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Is the Main Waterfall of Plitvice Really That Spectacular?

Expectation

A breathtaking spectacle of nature, where water flows endlessly over towering cliffs, creating a multi-level cascade framed by lush, overhanging trees.

Reality

It depends on the season.

We enter the park through the Lower Lakes entrance (Entrance 1), and barely a few steps in, there it is—the magnificent Veliki Slap waterfall. It’s like getting dessert before dinner. The sight is stunning— as it is very early summer when the water levels are still high, the falls are as powerful and majestic as one could hope for. This waterfall looks like something you’d find hidden in the rainforests.

This is a promising start.

However, as I’ve heard from other travellers (and seen some pics), it is not always that way. If you visit in the middle of summer when water levels are low, you’ll see less powerful streams. The waterfalls need to take it easy at times, too.

But if you are unsure – here is a hack – set your expectations straight by checking the livestream available on Plitvice Lakes website a couple of days in advance. 

Is the Water in Plitvice Lakes National Park Really That Blue?

Expectations

A surreal, vivid turquoise that almost doesn’t seem real. The kind of colour that would make you question your camera’s filter settings.

Reality

The water really is THAT blue.

We began our walk down the pathways, and at first, the lakes are hidden behind thick groves of trees. But when the first lake unfolds, it’s a real “wow” moment.

Then we follow winding wooden pathways that hover just above the calm surface of the lakes. The water is so transparent you can see every detail of the plants growing beneath the surface and the fish swimming by. The scene is dotted with clusters of reeds, towering rock walls and at times tree branches are arching over the path creating a perfect, fairy tail like scene.

How Big of a Crowd Do You Have to Survive in Plitvice National Park?

Expectations

A peaceful, unhurried walk, with plenty of time to soak in the natural beauty at your own pace.

Reality

Ah, if only. By 11 AM the park is very CROWDED.

There are some breathing spaces, but at the most photographic locations, there are traffic jams that slow you down and sometimes even stop you for a while. For me, the sheer beauty of the place made up for the inconvenience of the crowds, but if you’re someone that gets crowd anxiety, Plitvice at rush hour may not be the place for you.

That being said, we noticed an interesting shift toward the end of the day. About an hour and a half before closing time, the crowds started thinning, and for the first time all day, we were able to experience the park in near solitude. The stillness was magical, and for those last quiet moments, it felt like we had the entire place almost to ourselves.

Do You Get to Experience a Fun, Free Boat Ride in Plitvice National Park?

Expectations

A quick hop onto a boat that whisks you across tranquil waters to Upper lakes, giving you time to kick back and enjoy the view.

Reality

Yes, there is a boat ride, and yes, it’s free—but don’t expect to just hop on it, as there may be an exhausting que.

When we arrive at the dock for the boat that takes you to the Upper Lakes, we are greeted by a sea of people. The wait time for us is 40+ minutes. If you’re not one for standing in line, there is an alternative: you can hike to the Upper Lakes. But be warned, the paths aren’t all the smooth wooden walkways you’ll find elsewhere. Some parts are dirt trails, so in a wet weather be ready to get your boots dirty. 

The boat ride does sound really fun… So I am vetoing it – let’s wait, and then we can walk back if we have the strength.

And although the que was a bit of an annoyance I am glad that we waited. The ride itself is calming, a slow drift across the turquoise waters that gives us a chance to sit back and take in the beauty from a different perspective. After hiking through the park, it was a welcome break.

Which Part of Plitvice is Better – Upper Lakes or Lower Lakes?

Expectation

The Lower Lakes are more popular, so they must be the better part of the park. Right?

Reality

It really depends on what you’re looking for.

If you’re after the crown jewel, the main waterfall, you’ll find it in the Lower Lakes. But the Upper Lakes seem to have more waterfalls overall, and you can get quite close to them.

Overall, the nature in Upper lakes seems more wilder. Don’t get me wrong, it is still spectacularly beautiful, but it feels more realistic. The Lower lakes are so perfect that you sometimes feel like walking through a staged scene. 

At one point, we find ourselves on a trail that winds along the base of a cliff, with many waterfalls pouring down right next to us. The water is so close that you can feel little speckles on your skin. It’s a magical scene complemented by the greenery draping over the top of the cliffs and the clear blue water of the lakes. This may be my favourite part of the whole park. 

How Much Is There to Do and See in Plitvice Lakes National Park?

Expectations

We’ll probably be done in a few hours—how much can there really be to see?

Reality

​​Hah. How naive I was! There’s plenty to see.

In fact, it took us more than six hours to explore the entire park, and we weren’t bored for a second. Every step of the journey offered something new to marvel at—whether it was the waterfalls, the enormous fish swimming in the clear blue lakes, or the towering rock walls rising out of the water. The landscape constantly shifted, each view more beautiful than the last. By the end, we were exhausted, but every moment felt like a treasure.

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Thoughts?

Overall, Plitvice matched my expectations pretty well.

All good things come with a cost, and Plitvice is no exception. You get dreamy views that are hard to believe, but you also have to deal with slow traffic and queues at times. For me, this trade-off was absolutely worth it.