In Bosnia and Herzegovina, not far from Mostar, there’s a hill overlooking the Neretva River. And on that hill sits the historic village of Počitelj —partly faded away.
This captivating site serves as a living testament to the unpredictability and fragility of life. Once a strategic stronghold and administrative centre during the Middle Ages, Počitelj was reduced to dust and ruin during the Bosnian War, earning a spot on the World Monuments Fund’s list of the 100 Most Endangered Cultural Heritage Sites in 1996.
But what awaits you in Počitelj today? Is it merely a crumbling ruin, or does someone still call this place home? Perhaps it’s a mix of both. Let’s find out together!
Location: Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Cost: Free
Length: ~1h
How to get there: By a car. Or with a guided tour to Mostar.
Check out our full Croatia – Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary
What to See in Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina?
We park the car at the base of the hill where Počitelj quietly awaits, perched above us. Looking up, you can already sense the adventure that awaits. Through the lush green trees, Ottoman-era buildings peek out— longing to tell their story. From here, you can spot the little domes of the Medresa (a Muslim religious high school), a tall stone clock tower, and the slender tip of a minaret reaching for the sky. Exciting, right?
And as the cherry on top—high above it all—sits the crumbling, abandoned fortress of Počitelj, a remnant of a once-mighty stronghold. What secrets does it hold?
Welcome to Počitelj – The City Made of Stone
The stone walls wind through the Počitelj like veins through the human body, and today, they will guide us on our journey.
When you pass through the first layer of stone fortifications, you find yourself on the ground level of Počitelj, surrounded by cars, tourists, and colorful souvenir shops. It’s not the ghost town you might expect after hearing that most of the population fled during the war. Clearly, someone still calls this place home—or at least works here.
A narrow cobblestone path winds between the stone walls, promising to lead us up the mountain. Since the walls are our guides in Počitelj, let’s follow it!
On the way up, we pass many historic houses, most made of rustic stone blocks and topped with diamond-patterned stone slab roofs. By now, you can see why Počitelj is sometimes called the city of stone. The whole place feels so different from the world I know. The picturesque streets of Počitelj create an atmosphere so distinct from the hustle and bustle of big city life that it’s as if you’ve travelled back in time, leaving the modern world behind.
Počitelj Architecture
According to UNESCO, the village of Počitelj reflects a blend of Ottoman and Medieval influences. However, my untrained eye is mostly picking up on the Ottoman vibes, likely due to the prominent landmarks. One of these is the Medresa—a Muslim religious high school. Nestled among the bushes and plants, it is partially hidden from view, but you can easily recognize it by the distinctive row of domes. The five smaller domes cover the classrooms, while the larger one tops the lecture room.
Another key attraction we pass by is the single-dome Mosque of Šišman Ibrahim-Paša, built in the 16th century. You can enter it for a small fee, but since I didn’t think ahead, I’m not dressed appropriately for a visit. It’s a bummer, but at least we’ll have a great view of its restored dome and minaret from higher up the mountain.
Our path doesn’t go directly past the third attraction in Počitelj—the clock tower—but you can still see it standing tall in the distance, with openings on all sides and a stone pyramid atop it. If you travel a bit more through Bosnia and Herzegovina, you’ll notice that clock towers hold significant importance in this region. There’s a prominent one in Sarajevo that still shows lunar time.
However, since not much information is available about this particular tower, let’s continue our climb upwards, as the views of the village below become more spectacular with every step.
When Was The Last Time You Felt Like You Are in an Indiana Jones Movie?
Počitelj is truly a bit of a mystery. In the blink of an eye, it transforms from a stone city into what I can only describe as an abandoned garden.
The paths grow narrower, and the greenery has claimed so much space that it’s almost impossible to escape the leaves brushing against your arms as you pass through these almost secret passages. You can’t help but feel like you’ve stepped into an adventure movie.
And the higher you climb, the more ruin-like Počitelj becomes. Up the hill, there are many abandoned houses that are overtaken by nature, with ivy creeping up the stone walls and bushes pushing through glassless windows and stone arches. And another house may look intact until you realise the empty windows are staring into nothingness.
Did I say Počitelj isn’t a ghost town? For a moment, it certainly feels like one—until you stumble upon a soda fridge displaying some homemade drinks for sale. There is no soul in sight, but someone must still be living here.
Do You Dare to Explore the Počitelj Fortress?
Finally, we reach the top of the hill where the Počitelj fortress sits—and what a view! From up here, you can see the stone houses of Počitelj scattered among the greenery, with the Neretva River winding gracefully through the lush forests below. In the distance, you can spot mountains, roads, and other villages.
There’s also a massive highway bridge that looks either abandoned or still under construction, its modern structure feeling oddly out of place in this otherwise timeless setting. Yet, all these things seem so far away, and even from up here, you feel a world apart from the life you know.
One could stand here for quite a while, just soaking in the incredible view. But the little adventure-craving monster inside me is itching for something more exciting. How about we explore that octagon-shaped stone tower? Do you dare?
The Počitelj fortress was built between the 15th and 18th centuries, so it has been standing here for a very long time. While the entrance to the tower isn’t restricted, venturing inside is entirely at your own risk. Let’s take a peek and evaluate the situation.
At the bottom level, there’s not much to see, but there are narrow stone stairs spiralling upward. So the adventure continues! As you climb a couple of staircases, an opening in the inner wall reveals the hollow core of the tower, where windows and niches are placed whimsically along the stone walls.
As you climb a couple of staircases, an opening in the inner wall reveals the hollow core of the tower, where windows and niches are placed asymmetrically along the stone walls, giving the space a whimsical feel.
When you reach the top, a small room unfolds, its windows pointing in every direction. The room is empty, except for the bare walls and gravel-covered floor, but it has a unique vibe. From this higher vantage point, the panorama becomes even more breathtaking.
At the end of the stairs, a room unfolds with windows pointing in all directions. There is nothing in it besides the bare walls and the gravel covering the floor, but it has a unique vibe.
From up here, you can see that our trusty guide—the stone wall—stretches across the entire hilltop to another viewpoint in the distance. I guess that’s where we should be heading next!
What Happened to the Dream of Počitelj’s Rebirth?
From afar, the other end of the fortress looks promising, with railings and some glass details hinting at a viewing platform.
However, when you arrive, you find a rather sad view. Clearly, time and effort were spent to create something that looks like it might have become a tourism center, but the construction sits unfinished, with missing parts and holes. It appears to have been neglected for a long time, as ivy and fig trees grow through the cracks. How many years does it take for a fig tree to grow?
Don’t get me wrong—the views from the platforms are still amazing. It’s worth visiting both lookout spots, as from here you also get a great angle of the octagonal tower we just explored. But I can’t help but feel a bit scared to enter the empty rooms below; that’s where the adventure may just turn into a horror story. It’s just sad that whatever was started here wasn’t carried through, especially since Počitelj has turned out to be such an intriguing and fascinating place to explore.
So, let’s return to the picturesque streets below and wander around a bit more before we have to leave for Mostar.
Thoughts?
When I travel, I’m most captivated by places that provide a glimpse into a different culture or transport me to another time. Počitelj in Bosnia and Herzegovina offers both, making it a true jackpot of experiences! I definitely recommend visiting. As well as I truly hope that the dream about Počitelj rebirth hasn’t faded away.
Check out the full itinerary of our Croatia – Bosnia and Herzegovina road trip
A lot more fun things to experience organized in a day-to day plan