Vidzemes akmeņainā jūrmala

Hiking in Vidzeme rocky seashore. Tūja – Ķurmrags

Are you ready to stretch your legs, inhale the crisp sea breeze, and lose yourself in the mesmerizing beauty of Latvia’s coastline? Then join us on a hike along Vidzeme’s rocky shore—a journey that promises tranquility and natural charm.

We’re aiming to cover about 8 kilometers, but don’t worry if that feels daunting. There are shorter alternatives for a gentler adventure, as well as longer options for those seeking a greater challenge.

A quick heads-up for Instagram enthusiasts: this isn’t a hike filled with grandiose attractions or world-famous photo spots. What you’ll find instead is a raw, untouched beauty—an endless interplay of rocks, the rhythmic crash of waves, and the soothing embrace of nature. This is a hike for the soul. A journey where inner peace takes center stage, paired with the joy of movement and discovery. If that resonates with you, let’s get started!


Location: Start / End


Cost: Free


Length: ~8km by the seashore, 10.55 km including the walk to and from car


How to get there: By a car


Logistics for Hiking Along Vidzeme’s Rocky Coastline

When planning a hike along the coastline, you have two options: either walk back and forth along the same route or, if your group has two cars, leave one at the starting point and the other at the endpoint. We opted for the second option.

However, finding a parking spot along the rocky coastline of Vidzeme can be quite a challenge. In Tūja, there’s a small free parking lot and possibly a campsite where you can park for a fee. If you plan to hike to the Veczemju Cliffs, there’s also a paid parking option there. But what about the stretches in between? The only place we found was Brīvnieku Stiga—a short section of road without any “no parking” signs.

Start Your Hike on Vidzeme Rocky Seashore at Tūja Pier

We begin our hike at Tūja Pier, where the breeze carries the crisp scent of salt and seaweed, mingling with the rhythmic crash of waves. The pier, a relic of bygone days, stretches ahead in uneven sections, bearing the marks of time and the relentless sea. Its far end, now crumbling and surrendered to nature, has been conquered by a group of birds.

 It doesn’t feel safe to walk the Tuja pier, but you can’t resist snapping a few photos of its rustic charm.

Tūjas mols

Did you know that once, a pipe used to run across this very pier? It transported fish from the boats directly to a nearby factory using a fan system. Can you imagine?

With the pier commemorated in photos and the imagination stirred by its story, the adventure calls. The Vidzeme shoreline stretches before us, promising more tales to uncover and beauty to explore. Let’s begin.

The Unique Charm of Vidzeme’s Rocky Coastline

As you begin your walk along the coastline, the unique charm of Vidzeme’s rocky shore quickly becomes clear: it’s the rocks. Though the terrain is mostly sandy and soft beneath your feet, the landscape is alive with stones of every imaginable size, shape, and color. There are more rocks here than even Pokaiņi could boast!

Some are small, smooth, and perfectly round, amusingly reminiscent of rabbit poop. Others are large and jagged, their surfaces etched with ridges and grooves, sculpted over centuries by the restless sea waves. Many are polished and colorful, scattered across the sand like candies glinting in the sunlight.

Akmeņi Vidzemes akmeņainajā jūrmalā

The farther you venture from Tūja, the more untamed the landscape becomes. With every kilometer, new surprises emerge. In one spot, intricate lines are drawn in the sand, as if an unseen artist had created a Zen garden by the sea.

Smilšu māksla

A little farther stands a wigwam of driftwood. Nearby, a name etched into the shore tells a fleeting story, left behind for the next wanderer to find.

Feeling inspired, you pause to leave your own mark on this living canvas of sand and stone. What will you write?

Ķurmrags Lighthouse

The sound of the waves and the crunch of sand underfoot make the kilometers fly by. Soon, the landscape ahead seems to change—an expanse of rocks replaces the sandy shoreline. At first glance, it looks like the beach has ended, but a closer look reveals a path forward, winding through the rocks.

Vidzemes akmeņainā jūrmala

As you carefully make your way across, Ķurmrags Lighthouse comes into view. It’s not the towering beacon you might expect; instead, it stands in the water, a lone metal pole weathered by the elements.

Ķurmraga bāka

Here’s the story: it used to be a proper lighthouse, standing proudly on the shore. Then, two hurricanes swept through. The first brought destruction; the second carried what remained into the sea. And there it stays, a marker of nature’s power and the passage of time.

You pause here, soaking in the moment. Six kilometers behind us, the coastline stretches back toward Tūja. It’s a solid walk, we could call it a day here — but something nudges us to move forward.

The map shows the Ežurgu Cliffs are just over a kilometer ahead. Let’s try to find them.

Did We Find the Ežurgu Cliffs?

Honestly, I’m still unsure

As we continue our walk along the rocky coastline, the landscape grows wilder with each step. 

Soon, patches of orange catch our eyes in the distance. Could these be the Ežurgu Cliffs we’ve been searching for? The thought injects fresh energy into our steps, and we quicken our pace toward the enticing sight.

Atsegumi Vidzemes akmeņainajā jūrmalā

When we finally reach the formations, we’re greeted by small cliffs etched with intricate grooves and ridges. They’re undeniably beautiful—a natural sculpture shaped by the hands of time and tide. But something feels… off. These don’t match the grandeur of the iconic cliffs captured in countless photos online. Uncertainty settles in.

Atsegumi Vidzemes akmeņainajā jūrmalā

Could it be that Vidzeme’s rocky coastline holds more than one hidden treasure, with the true Ežurgu Cliffs waiting just a little farther ahead?
Determined to find out, we push onward.

The trail becomes a rugged adventure, leading us to a wild stretch of shoreline where stones have tumbled into a chaotic yet mesmerizing obstacle course. Here, the rocks demand more than just footsteps; they call for careful navigation—balancing, climbing, and maneuvering through nature’s stony labyrinth. It’s an adventure, no doubt, but before plunging into the challenge, I pull out the map for guidance.

And there it is, clear as the day: the Ežurgu Cliffs are already behind us.

So, were those earlier formations the cliffs we set out to find?
I can’t say for sure. Was this a case of clever marketing, or did we simply overlook the signs? Perhaps one day, someone will shine some light on this.

With our car waiting back in Ķurmragas and the next highlight—the Veczemju Cliffs—still several kilometers away, this feels like a fitting place to turn back.

For those willing to venture farther, let me assure you: the Veczemju Cliffs are beautiful and more impressive than the rock formations we just saw. If you’ve got the stamina, they’re well worth the extra trek.

Swimming Along Vidzeme’s Rocky Coastline

After trekking for kilometers under the warm sun, cooling off in the water sounds like the perfect idea.

But as it turns out, swimming along Vidzeme’s rocky coastline isn’t as simple as it might seem. Why? You guessed it—rocks. They’re everywhere. It’s a classic case of beauty with a price.

While these rocks are stunning to look at, they’re less friendly beneath the waves. Submerged stones are often slippery, and many like to play hide-and-seek beneath the sandy seabed, posing a challenge for your toes. To add to the difficulty, this stretch of coast often sees strong waves that can tug you into deeper waters.

The takeaway? Unless you’re confident in your swimming skills and the conditions, it’s best not to take unnecessary risks.

Akmeņi Vidzemes akmeņainajā jūrmalā

What are your thoughts?

In the past, I always felt the need to include something grand in every hiking route—a castle, a cave, a waterfall, or some other marvel. I worried that without these highlights, my companions might lose interest.

But Vidzeme’s rocky coastline taught me an important lesson: grandeur isn’t always necessary. Sometimes, all you need is the beauty of nature, good company, and the crisp freshness of the open air.

What You Need to Know About Hiking Vidzeme Rocky Seashore in Latvia

Suggested Routes for Hiking Vidzeme Rocky Seashore

On our hike, we covered the route Car – Tūja Pier – Ķurmragas – Ežurgu Cliffs – Ķurmragas – back to the car, totaling 10.55 km (measured by a fitness watch). About 8 of these kilometers were along the beach.

Facilities and Amenities on  Tūja – Ķurmrags hike

Well-maintained changing rooms and restrooms are available at the starting point near Tūja Pier. If you forget to pack drinks or snacks, there’s also a small shop in Tūja.

Accessibility of Vidzeme Rocky Seashore Hike

The route is sandy, making it unsuitable for wheelchairs or strollers. The first section is less rocky, but around Ķurmragas and beyond, the rocks become more frequent. Some sections require climbing over rocks, which might be challenging for some hikers.

Veczemju cliffs

More places to see along Vidzeme seashore

Seaside cliffs in Latvia

Other things to see and do in Latvia

Thanks for visiting my little corner of the internet!

There are a lot of fun things to come, so come back for more travel stories later!

Armanda