Picture this: You’re in France, wandering through the enchanting streets of Lyon’s Old Town, where every corner is alive with history and hidden stories. Sure, Lyon’s cuisine is world-renowned, but what if I told you there’s a whole other treasure to uncover? Welcome to Lyon’s secret world of traboules—a network of ancient passageways that transform your stroll through the city into a thrilling, self-guided scavenger hunt! As you wander from square to square, past grand fountains and stunning centuries-old buildings, you’ll feel like an explorer on a quest, uncovering elusive clues and hidden gems. And towering above it all, the majestic white basilica watches over the city and you from its perch on the mountain.
Let’s go, find out what to see in Lyon together.
Location: Lyon, France
Cost: Listed attractions in Lyon are free, except the lunch
Length: 1 day
How to get there: By car or public transport to Lyon center, from there you can walk to all attractions
This stop is part of our France travel itinerary. Check out the full route
A Treasure Hunt: Find Lyons Secret Traboules
Let’s turn our day trip to Lyon into a scavenger hunt! Here are the rules:
Lyon has a network of around 400 hidden passages and stairways that wind through the Old Town, known as traboules. For centuries, these have been used as shortcuts to navigate the city, but today, fewer than 100 are open to the public.
Your quest is to Uncover as many of Lyon’s secret traboules as you can! Keep your eyes peeled for hidden signs along the way, but no peeking at the secret Traboule map—yes, it exists, but where’s the fun in that?
Ready? I’ll give you a hint: the traboules are located in the Vieux Lyon and Croix Rousse areas of the city.
The Excitement of Finding Your First Traboule
We begin our quest on a random street, eyes darting across the buildings, searching for clues. But in Lyon, it’s not so simple—many facades feel like wannabe art galleries, adorned with tiny, quirky masterpieces. A Pac-Man mosaic grins from a corner, a miniature Mona Lisa smirks from a nearby wall. Could one of these be the key to unlocking a hidden passage?
We wander for quite a while, hopelessly scanning the doors of Lyon’s houses, wondering if a traboule is hiding behind any of them. It’s hard to tell.
These secret passages were once used by 19th-century silk workers to transport their precious goods. But they became even more crucial during World War II, when the city’s resistance used them to outmaneuver German forces, slipping through the city undetected. If these passageways once fooled soldiers, what chance do we have of finding them?
But then—you spot it. A sign with a blue lion and an arrow showing the way. That’s our clue!
We step through the doorway and into the mystery, finding ourselves in a hidden inner courtyard. Tall walls enclose the small open-air space, as if guarding its secret. A few plants sit in large pots, transforming the courtyard into a secret garden.
Different Types of Traboules in Lyon
As you’ll soon discover, there are all kinds of traboules in Lyon, and no two are alike. Some boast striking architectural features, like a pink tower with dark, hollow windows that seem to stare at you like empty eyes. Others are simple but undeniably photogenic.
And then there are the grittier ones—bare floors, graffiti-covered walls—those ones make me a bit uneasy, but they each add a unique layer to the city’s labyrinth. It’s like every traboule is a little puzzle piece, contributing to the intricate story of Lyon.
We walk along the streets, scanning the houses for another blue Lyon. The thrill of spotting one never gets old. And once you’ve found your first, you start noticing them everywhere. Sometimes, there are even signs pointing in different directions, forcing you to make a choice.
But just to make sure this scavenger hunt doesn’t get too easy, you also start spotting other symbols—like a little eye. What could that mean? It’s a mystery. Maybe it’s marking a traboule that’s visible but not accessible? Just a guess.
You might think all traboules are tunnels and secret passages, but Lyon’s traboules also take the shape of stairs. After wandering from one hidden passage to the next, we find ourselves at the famous Cour des Voraces—a breathtaking six-story staircase that feels more like a piece of modern art than something built in 1840. No wonder it attracts photographers like a siren.
I could easily spend the entire day wandering these hidden streets, exploring every corner and discovering new passageways. But we only have one day in Lyon, and this city has so much more to offer. So, let’s say our goodbyes to the traboules—at least for now—and set our sights on the next adventure waiting for us in our Lyon itinerary.
Just a short walk away from the maze of traboules we find ourselves in one of Lyons most impressive squares.
Bartholdi Fountain on Place des Terreaux, Lyon
At the heart of Place des Terreaux, nestled among grand buildings that look like they have cost a fortune to build, stands a fountain that radiates power and grace. Four wild horses, each straining in a different direction, tug relentlessly, their hooves kicking up water below them. Yet, in the chariot at the center, a woman sits unflinching, her calm presence controlling the wild spirits with ease.
What makes this fountain even more fascinating is its history: it was designed by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, the same sculptor who created the Statue of Liberty. Originally intended for Bordeaux, the fountain proved too costly for them, so Lyon stepped in and claimed it instead.
Don’t miss Lyons Large Scale Murals
As you explore Lyon, keep your eyes peeled—not just for the quirky, tiny artwork that decorates the corners of houses, but also for the impressive large-scale murals that cover some of the facades.
Look up now, and you might spot a black panther gracefully walking along the edge of a building, framed by fake windows. But that’s not all—more murals are scattered throughout the city, and from a distance, some are so lifelike they’ll have you second-guessing whether you’re staring at a real person.
But now my tummy is grumbling so I believe it is time to grab some lunch.
Lunchtime in Lyon: Indulge in Crepes
Although Lyon isn’t the birthplace of crepes (that would be Brittany), crepes have a long and beloved history in France. In fact, there’s even a holiday, La Chandeleur, dedicated to eating them! With such a strong tradition, I couldn’t leave France without trying some.
But since it’s lunchtime, a Nutella or lemon-and-sugar covered desert might not be enough. Thankfully, there’s also a savory variety: Crêpes de sarrasin (also called galettes), made with buckwheat flour. These hearty crepes are typically served with savory toppings like baked egg and bacon, and they’re just as scrumptious as the sweet kind.
Lyon’s Notre-Dame de Fourvière – The Basilica Overlooking It All
Climbing the Mountain to Reach the Basilica
It’s been watching us the whole time!
As you walk through Lyon, it feels like Notre-Dame de Fourvière is always there, perched high on the hill, silently keeping an eye on the city below. Now, it’s finally time to climb that hill and visit the stunning white basilica that’s been overseeing us all along.
So, we begin our ascent.
And oh my God, this climb! I run twice a week and consider myself to be in decent shape, but as we keep climbing—and climbing—and climbing, even I start to regret my life choices.
But hey, there’s a reward at the end, right? So encouraged by friendly locals “you’re almost there” we push on!
Along the way, we pass the “Eiffel Tower of Lyon.” Now, I don’t want to upset anyone, but my honest opinion? The metallic Fourvière Tower is nothing like the Eiffel Tower.
It’s tucked behind a large wall covered in barbed wire and serves as a television tower, so I wouldn’t exactly call it a must-see attraction. Sorry!
But from here, Notre-Dame de Fourvière is almost within reach, so we just have to hang on for a little longer.
The Unbelievable Detail Work of Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica
When we finally reach the basilica, I can’t help but let out a sigh—not from exhaustion after the climb, but in sheer awe of the breathtaking detail that adorns Notre-Dame de Fourvière.
Its light facade is a masterpiece of intricate craftsmanship, layered with ornate sculptures and delicate reliefs, as if draped in stone lace. Every inch of it seems to tell a story, rich with symbolism waiting to be uncovered. Winged lions, angels, stars, crosses, and other Biblical motifs peek out from the elaborate carvings, each with its own hidden meaning. Even the four towers of the Notre-Dame de Fourvière basilica hold significance, representing the cardinal virtues of fortitude, justice, prudence, and temperance. How fascinating!
And as if the basilica itself weren’t mesmerizing enough, the view from up here is just as striking. Lyon stretches out below like an endless sea of terracotta rooftops and colorful façades. Amidst it all, a couple of skyscrapers rise unexpectedly, almost as if they took a wrong turn and wandered into the wrong city—a quirky contrast that makes me smile.
But now, let’s head inside for some more exploration.
What’s Inside Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica?
It turns out that this basilica is actually made up of two churches: the main church above and a crypt below, dedicated to St. Joseph, the husband of the Virgin Mary.
If the intricate details on the exterior took your breath away, the interior might just surpass them. Inside the main church, every inch is lavishly decorated—from the mesmerizing mosaic patterns on the floor to the sculpted columns and the gilded designs woven into the ceiling. It’s an overwhelming display of artistry and devotion. What grandeur!
The crypt, in contrast, is more muted. Its decorations are simpler, the atmosphere heavier, and the space dimly lit. But as I later learned, this contrast is intentional. Pilgrims were meant to move from the darkness of the crypt into the radiant light of the main church—symbolizing their spiritual journey through Joseph toward the Virgin Mary (source).
As we have climbed all this way up, after visiting the basilica it also makes sense to stop by another Lyons attraction next door.
Did You Know Lyon Has an Amphiteatre?
When I think of Roman theaters, my mind immediately goes to… well, Rome. So, I was genuinely surprised to learn that Lyon is home to not one but two well-preserved amphitheaters. Turns out, that’s on me for not knowing my history—Lyon was once one of the most important cities of the Roman Empire, known as Lugdunum.
The larger of the two of Lugdunum Roman Theatres of Lyon is the Grand Théâtre, where tragedies and comedies were performed, while the smaller one, the Odéon, was used for musical and literary performances. At its peak in 120 AD, the theater could hold up to 10,700 spectators. Today, you can wander through the rows of ancient stone seats and step on the half circle stage to imagine the grandeur of this place in its prime.
With this short stop our day trip to Lyon comes to an end. I hope you had fun exploring with me!
Thoughts?
Looking for Lyon’s traboules was a lot of fun – I would recommend it and would actually do it again myself. And the architecture of the basilica was outstanding – such an intricate detail work! So overall my one day in Lyon, France turned out to be a lot of fun, and I think yours would too if you made a stop there.
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